More grunt and groan.....with pictures

Instead of doing the right thing today and yesterday ( revising for exam ) I had a major potter with the MG.

So, fitted all new copper brake pipes. Cor, they ain't half long and complex. The bending them part was easy, too easy in fact. I had the idea I'd get them straight as a die looking ever so neat and tidy. Not a chance !. Still their in and fastened. Some of the P clips were a swine to re-fasten. Namely the one directly below the master cylinder. Two pipes almost went side by side ( with some ungentlemanly language and "persuasion"), the clutch pipe (steel) was in the way as was two thick cables and starter motor solenoid with mass of other wires. The  P clips distort like buggery when bent back then forward as their holes then don't line up.
One under the rear seat was also tough as it was a strap clamp holding the fuel line and another pipe/cable + the new copper line, all had to be fitted into a rubber 1/2 grommet.

The bad news is I have 3 leaks. One oil leak cured easily on the front oil cooler/pipe union. The union was leaking, cured by buying and fitting a new oil pipe. I was dreading removing the nut from the pipe as where it attaches to the Aluminium oil cooler as last time I sheared off the base thus ruined the oil cooler. The new cooler was a second hand purchase from good ole E-bay, bought and fitted a least two years ago. Trouble was I used the old pipes that came with it ( attached at oil cooler end) since they were better than mine.
Unwise move. During the last start up it leaked/ nay dribbled out.
So its repaired now with a brand new pipe. I have to buy another pipe now as I'm not risking the other one.
as you can see from the photo I still have the  Union to undo from the cooler. Tried today and it wont budge.

I'll leave it to absorb some penetrating fluid for a few days.
The other oil leak was at the engine end of the oil gauge pipe. Again I'd bought and fitted a new one ages ago but noticed a very small leak again at start up. I knew it would though. To fit it was a nightmare as its very inaccessible and I crossed/stripped the threads in the end of the hose. So another one is needed..again.
This time I've removed as much as possible to gain better access so as not to make a balls up of it.

The other leak is new, its hydraulic,  coming from the connection of the short rubber pipe to the clutch housing cylinder. This again is in the most inaccessible of places, below the starter motor solenoid and very close to the new copper brake line installed and between the gearbox and engine chassis rail.

So I did what I normally do on these occasions.........did something else on the car.

Removed the brake caliper + hose and attempted to remove the hub. Failed miserably. I didn't have a 1-1/8" socket. So whilst all I thought I would need would be new pads then all new rubber bushes it looks like I now need new discs, back plate and maybe pistons too. They are also soaking in penetrating fuel as we speak.

 Here's a view of the somewhat bare disc as I left it today. Incidentally, last night I fractured a rib falling down some ladders at bedtime ( Long story don't ask ) so its all been a bit of a struggle in more ways than one.

Here is one member of the family ( Ruby ) who loves the car....she sleeps in it till the early hours. How the hell does she get in when the covers over and the rubber strap/hook  thingies are on ?

More soon when I've got money to buy parts and the exams out of the way.

Minor potterings lead to (near) disaster and treason

So, fitted the water pump and  fan belt without too much trauma. Quite easy really.
Then decided to tighten the cylinder head bolts and set tappet clearances before starting engine....again.

During the process, well, at the very start I noticed a tappet arm well off centre, how strange !!!
Further investigation showed the tappet rod loose and flapping around at the bottom of its shaft.
More investigation by removing the small valve/tappet chest cover at the front.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

There resting on its side and hiding in a puddle of oil was a tappet follower.
It was for the inlet/outlet (forgot now) of No 2 cylinder. I must have not put it back correctly during the head re-furb. They are very fiddly. They are about 2" long ( 50mm) and 3/4" diameter (15mm) with a hole in the end for the tappet rod to drop into. You need fingers like a deformed midget to get them in position and the grip of a python to hold them.
Anyways, did that eventually.
The big problem was getting the valve/tappet chest cover and gasket back on properly. It and the holding nut are directly under the manifold. No finger room at all. Bear in mind its oily too. I must have tried 15 times before biting the bullet and removing loads to access it.
viz. 
carb fuel feed pipe.
Heatshield
4 boingy springs
throttle cable
choke cable
Manifold nuts and stepped washers
4 of the most fiddly and awkward carb mounting nuts ever made
4 gaskets to carbs
inlet manifold
exhaust manifold

After that the cover and thick rubber gasket were a piece of cake.

Which reminds me, during some of the attempts at starting and trying to cure why it won't start unless off the jump leads means plug no 2 mystery solved.

Some time after starting the first time, inspection of said plug was clean as a whistle. No wonder, no spark, no compression, no exhaust ala no valve movement due to errant tappet follower.
No wonder the engine when started sounded a bit loud and rough.
Anyway, now I can't wait to restart, or at least attempt to.

I still have the oil gauge connector seal at the engine to replace, one oil cooler pipe( leaking at its union) at the oil cooler end to refit and replace some cracked fuel rubber pipes ( noticed during makeshift fuel filler /gatorade bottle).

I did remove the ancient selmer alarm fitted together with loads of bodged wiring and find where the mystery switch wires led to ( across the coil connections/ some sort of home made immobiliser device )
I've left this though to remove later.

I also solved the damper arm problem. After buying the kit to lower the rear from MGOC the Armstrong dampers looked at a too vertical angle.
A quick call ( well 2 months after fitting) to MGOC and they sent me the correct ones ( longer, you should still use the RB links even when lowering to CB height )
Spent a frustrating 3 hours replacing since it involved laying on my side and spannering away forever.

Next job is to replace the brake pipes from rear axle to front end, both front corners ( bought and waiting)
Then replace the front suspension bushes.( not purchased yet )
Then rebuild front and rear brakes. Ditto.
Between which I'll probably try the engine electrics again.

The Treason is ........horror of horrors I've been fancying a Lotus Esprit.
And , it was my hero Ed China who started it. A recent episode of Wheeler Dealer whetted my appetite for what must be the most beautiful of all sports cars ever designed. Trust my luck they are a real pain to work on though. Maybe one day well after the MG is sorted and I have money. A V8 would be nice.

Life goes on for poor old Lostsock, having an exam re-sit late August which has really ruined my summer.
Son No 1 behaves like lord rising from bed at afternoon and lounging in jimjams all day. Daughter No1 is just the opposite, full of action and plans giving us no rest. Wifey continues to nag re DIY on the house. So I'm torn between all this and revision for a tough exam in 4 weeks time.
Lets hope for some sunshine and cash.

More soon