Sunday, September 26, 2010

watching paint dry


So, here are some parts painted today. Actually I'm a little disappointed with them. I rushed somewhat due to the imminent rain/wind/darkness since it was mid Sunday afternoon. What would have been ideal is a blasting cabinet and industrial cleaning tank. The Armstrong damper and the inside of the kingpin Assy where caked in years old grease. I did several coats of the foamy degrease stuff and a good wipes down but the grease just seem ed to be "pushed" around. Spent a not long enough time wire brushing like mad then decided to paint. Which paint though ?. I had two options. The Matt black stuff  I did the rear axle with or the Hammerite smooth Matt I purchased by accident. The axle Matt stuff was a doddle to apply and quite runny. Trouble was it lacked the " body" of a newly painted/refurbished  item. It looked more factory finish, i.e cheap for the mass market. The Hammerite was definitely thicker in consistency and not easy to apply ( or clean brushes ). Anyways, due to the parts ( stub axle and Armstrong damper mainly) being less than spotlessly clean I opted for the Hammerite. Looks good though, if not a little too thick and glossy.
                  Since "er indoors" was shouting 30 mins to evening dinner ( Nice homemade Prawn curry with all the trimmings) I packed it away to review next week.
The list of parts needed grows for this corner of the car, viz
Rubber bushes complete set
Inner rubber bearing cover
Grease gun + recommended grease
Top wishbone nut,bolt & washer
New set of split pins
New brake disc
New Brake disc back plate
New Pads, pins and strap/lock tab
New Bolts (4) and nuts - Disc to hub
mixed set of bearing shims

Then probably same for tuther side some time maybe in spring.

And that's on top of the new large oil cooler pipe, small oil gauge pipe/union, clutch rubber hose, brake fluid, clutch fluid.

Its gonna be a long hard winter............more soon folks.
( p.s WD40 is great for cleaning Hammerite off  brushes)

Thursday, September 02, 2010

suspended suspension...or suspension suspened ! Part One

Enigmatic title ? Yes that refers to my attempts to undo all the rusted and oily tough nuts on the front RH side.
Since I have no form of oxy/acetylene torch ( or common blowlamp come to that) it was an uphill struggle all the way. Or even an upside down struggle at least.
I last touched the MG a good few weeks ago prior to my exams and subsequent re-sit ( result pending ).
I had managed to remove the brake caliper, split the caliper on the bench the tried to remove the hub as a whole. It was then I discovered I didn't have a socket large enough for the hub centre ( Inch & 1/8th AF)
I tried in vain all the local tool shops in town ( 6 in total) only to be given the same bemused look from all when asking for Imperial sockets.
Good ole E-bay sorted it in minutes, and had it a few days later. When it arrived I tested it on the rear.
I had a shock, the rears are  larger nuts. At first I thought I'd bought the wrong one, but turned out I was just too lazy to lift the front cover to look at the front hub. Why did BL make them different sizes ??
Anyways, I'm not touching the rear hubs, only the front.
So in a fit of pique and guilt trip of non revision I did what I normally do, nothing, for a good few weeks
That is until yesterday.
With most of the day ahead of me I set about the front RH unit again, but this time with the correct size socket. Split pin out and nut off easy peasy, off came the rusty disc and even rustier hub.
Spent some frustrating time trying to undo the outer hub from the disc hub..........impossible.
The workmate with jury rigged "new " jaws is rapidly disintegrating.
It has 4 bolts in from the back with well recessed heads, nuts at the front but even more recessed. And there is very little room at the back, in fact no room to fit a socket over the bolt head.
So, after another liberal dousing with the sweet smelling penetrating fluid I put it to one side and set about removing the spring pan + arms and upper arms.
Disconnecting the ball joint steering arm was easy with some synchronised bashing of two hammers. Timing was essential, as was "feel" since one hammer was of the "claw" type and the other "lump" type = gross weight mismatch. It took about 15 blows in various directions and swing timings then viola, it was free.
The front anti roll bar ( sway bar for U.S readers) came away easily.
Then the problems started. Or one problem in particular.
The bolt and nut through the end ( narrow end) of the top  "A" frame where it attaches to the vertical trunnion had been ...............wait for it

Welded to the frame each side !!!!!!!      It was not even the correct bolt. One side had been a domed head with a spot of weld on the arm to stop it spinning. Tuther side had weld wire and gobs of weld on the nut and arm to stop it spinning.
A nifty slice with the super thin cutting disc in the scary grinder saw the heads sliced off expertly.
Trouble was I was left with two flush faces and a bolt that had been in situ gawd knows how long.
Repeated bashing with punch and lump hammer did nothing, either direction.
So I decided the whole assembly had to come off ( Armstrong damper with two upper wishbones, trunnion connected.
At this point sense prevailed and I took the lower pan A frame outer mountings off.
This was a scary move as there is a lot of force since the spring is forcing it apart.
Fortunately the car was supported on two axle stands so I used the trolley jack to lift up the lower pan to take the strain, undid the and nut and tapped the bolt through.
This was surprisingly easy, and it was the part I thought to be the most difficult job on suspension overhaul.
Careful lowering of the jack let the pan down gently, a few taps with lumpy ( my new best friend) and the spring was free.
I was still left with the top "a" frame connected and the lower one too !!!! albeit at the subframe side.
Since the top bolt ( welded ) would not shift the Armstrong unit complete with drop link had to come off ,so I tried to remove the Armstrong bolts (4).
The front two easy, the rear..............................gawd what a performance. RH side was slow.
LH side near impossible. No socket with my extension would fit ( if I had an extension half its length it may have worked ) but a spanner was a real tight fit movement wise. I think I moved it 1/2 a flat at a time with approx 45 seconds of fiddling to get the ring end located properly each turn, 40 minutes later the last bolt came out. The total time for the other three was about 15 minutes.
Bear in mind this was done with bleeding and sore hands, oily as f*** parts and sideways laying down right on top of our cast iron castelated sewer cover.
Then off the top half came, to join its other partly reassembled friend, fiend and co partner the hub assembly on the trusty workmate, to enjoy some time off in the sunshine bestowed on us this very late summer. As a gesture of complete juvenile frustration and envy I took enormous joy in drowning both twats in perfumey penetrating fluid..

Since that's a lot of text..........and no pictures ( hands and body too oily to get camera from bedroom) I'll leave it for now. More this weekend.