So, how to explain the title then ?
Last post saw me list a long long list of stuff I needed to buy to make some progress. Well now I've been paid (twice) I did spend some hard earned cash on the following :-
... New Rear Brake pads, pins, clips etc
... One ( Yes, one) brake caliper cylinder. More of this later.
... Brake fluid ( 5 ltrs) a little overkill on volume, but again more on that later.
... Rear brake piston seal kit/s, springs and pins.
... Rear 1-5/16" sockett (for rear centre nut)
... Pair of rear hub to axle seals.
That little lot came to over £95. I felt guilty over the amount, however it was needed and I'd earned the right spend some cash after a good few frugal winter months.
Initially all went well. The rear oil seal hub to axle was easier than expected courtesy of a lump hammer and flat softwood timber.
The first problem was the slight "clunk" from the axle when turning the wheel in either direction. I know all MG's have this but how much is acceptable ? At the worse its the drive shaft splines f***ed. At best the diff pinions oil seats have disintegrated. I'm still annoyed I did not discover/address this issue last summer when all the rear axle was removed and re-painted together with the suspension renewal/lowering.
Ho hum. I decided its best to worry about this issue when the car is up and running, after all I'd got parts to fit.
Some good news was that in the box of parts that arrived was a complete rear brake cylinder. I didn't order it but was charged for it so I decided to leave it for now and get on with both cylinder refurbs. The a real conundrum started. Once I'd removed the RH cylinder from the back plate how the hell do I get the main plunger out. Moreover, it was rusted solid in there and was immovable. I decided to fit the new one, hoping the other side was not as bad. Fortunately it wasn't, so a good soaking in penetrating fluid and a few taps with trusty lump hammer and wood saw the job done, refitted to back plate, springs and old shoes (old but with lots of facing material on them) fitted and ready for action. The handbrake cable was a challenge to re-fit at the final side, which required some clever leverage with a set of water pump pliers and five pairs of hands, but on other job done. Even managed to set the shoes to grip with the handbrake after slight adjustment.
I'm writing this on Thursday teatime ( Prior to Good Friday) and just popped out for a smoke to ponder on the Issues I'm about to write of, when looking down at the floor near the MG I see a small washer. On inspection it turns out to be a shim washer........and I know where from !!!! Please bear with me and as I'm getting a little ahead with this welcome discovery and diversion. But it could be IMPORTANT to my woes !
Have to go now as a bottle of whisky is calling after the end of a good few days on my first night shift rota. TBC.
So to continue.
I was feeling rather smug with myself after fitting most of the brake parts and having a copious supply of brake fluid. So all that remained was to fit the front calliper seals and pistons, fit whole lot to car, fill up with said fluids, bleed and another milestone reached.
Second problem.
I'd bought only one new front brake piston as it had rusted solid in situ and took some ingenuity to removed (see earlier post). The other three pistons were deemed o.k to re-use in the name of economy and originality. But where were they ? I hunted high and low, in and out, shed and desk drawer but nowhere could they be located. After a lot of thinking and more hunting I decided I must have thrown them away. I don't remember the decision but in hindsight I must have done, as it could be deemed foolhardy not to replace a complete set. So another job has to be shelved and 3 more pistons ordered.
What next then ? I'll do the clutch. Should be easy peasy. fill up, bleed and hey Ho, a working clutch. Wrong, very wrong.
The pedal travel was very easy and soft even with the bleed nipple open fully. I decided to remove the slave cylinder to inspect it. What a sad sight. Its piston ( without protective rubber boot, I presume long since disintegrated) was also rusted solid and was never going anywhere, in or out. It looked impossible to pull out,being half in, half out of the bore with nowhere to grip onto to pull. After a lot of failed attempts at grippy things, small screwdrivers and penetrating fluid I had to resort to some bodging. That's after I'd already looked on line at the cost of a new unit ( how much !).
I drilled a M7 hole in the end of the piston and tapped it M8. Using a long-ish M8 bolt, large washer and the next door neighbours G clamp and a large adjustable spanner it was screwed out ala piston removal for front cylinder. Why a G clamp you might ask ?
Third problem
Well the trusty workmates sad and knackered makeshift jaws had truly given up the ghost, hence begging a G clamp to grip it whilst screwing out. Anyways it did it after a lot of swearing. Trouble was the cylinder piston now had a M8 shaped tapped hole through its centre. Next came a spot of Lostsock ingenuity again. I inserted M8 screw the other way covered in epoxy glue, just enough to allow the clutch lever rod to seat in the bottom. Waited till the epoxy had set and sliced off the back ( The inside part of the piston) with the trust scary grinder with thin cutting disc. It worked a treat and was very neat. I'm a poet but don't know it.
The innards of the slave cylinder were very black and cruddy but the seals were good after a thorough clean and flush out. Unfortunately an new rubber boot is not available for the clutch end so I fitted it anyway and got ready to bleed.
Fourth problem
Bleedings not easy. Especially when you have no willing assistant. Yes, the entire Lostsock came to help, but got fed up and abandoned me after 5 minuted each. The piston in the slave cylinder did not appear to move much, and only a dribble of fluid came out of the bleed hole, plus the pedal was very very soft. I decided to investigate the clutch master cylinder. Top bolt easy to undo, bottom bolt IMPOSSIBLE !. there is not enough room to swing a spanner or get access to the bolt head. Again BBS forum came to the rescue. A universal joint is required, extension and attack it from the inside dash compartment. For me easy as the dash is out . Bought and 250mm extension, ground a 3/8" square on the end of my 250mm universal joint and bingo. God it was difficult though. Only half, nay 1/4 of a flat turn possible. But after about an hour out it came. Disassembled easy enough and ordered a new seal kit ( along with the 3 pistons for front callipers).
Its at this point things are a little hazy. The seal kit was fitted. Its not easy and I had an extra seal ?
Two tapered seals were obvious enough although a little difficult to fit but where did the third small "cap like" seal fit ? Over the end of the spring ?. I fitted it there and tried again. See Lostsock struggle to fit the bolt. An hour later it was back in place. An hour later saw the clutch pedal stay down when depressed. That's just how I felt, depressed. I removed the master cylinder again, disassembled and removed the "cap" seal. Refitted ( another 45 mins this time) and cajoled son No 1 to help with the bleeding. progress at last, a flow was happening at the bleed nipple.
Fifth Problem
The pedal (and master cylinder piston) kept sticking. My only option was to remove the nut and union at the back of the assembly and use a long thin Allen key to push the piston back. However after two days of constant backache, frustration and bewilderment I gave up. Where, if at all should the "cap" seal go ?
Sixth problem
I'll bleed the brakes then. It cant be that difficult. I started on the Rear LH bleed nipple. This time with some co-operation from Son No 1. Nothing !! Not even a dribble. Only bubbling from within the brake reservoir on pedal upstroke. Tried other three nipples, same thing. Gave up to ponder my fate and hope new master cylinders are not required.
Seventh problem
On poking around the engine bay I noticed that 2 core plugs are leaking. Damn. Fortunately they are easily accessible near the oil filter and alternator. Its just another woe to add to a frustrating restoration and when I thought money was the answer to progress.
So, halfway through writing this I found the shim washer outside. Trouble is I can't remember where its from, Clutch slave or master cylinder. I do think it will solve a problem, which problem though. Should I move on to the bodywork for a while ?
Workwise, I've finished my 6 week induction period and am on the rota proper. This has already seen me do a 2 day night shift stint and a Saturday (Very hard work, remind me not to work this day in future) But it does mean I will get occasional daylight hours at home and if I have the motivation sort out the damn car. Lets have some encouragement from yer then...........please !
