Sunday, October 07, 2012

Life at last !!!!!

After 6 years .....it moves !!!
Brakes iffy, partial clutch, battery takes no charge and no exhaust but it moves.

Sunday, September 23, 2012

How's this fit together ?

After a lovely holiday in Greece and some new found enthusiasm I set too bolting back the engine bay ancillaries.
First up was emptying the gearbox of oil. I did this a few weeks ago but left the 4 litre milk container in situ whilst I holidayed. I wondered long and hard about the amount to put back in. Several of the usual sources said 4.5 pints ( UK pints) some said 6 pints. WTF ? Well almost 4 pints came out as I've the plastic milk container to prove it. More searching  revealed that the gearbox ( with Overdrive takes 6 pints) luckily found the  answer in my Haynes manual, who says men don't read the instructions.
Filling up was a farce. First I undid the wrong topping up bolt. I knew from my meanderings it was tricky to fill up the gearbox as the filling hole is rather awkwardly positioned. I assumed it was just out of sight under the firewall/scuttle and just ( only just) accessible from the engine bay. It was a real struggle undo the nut with very limited access. How to fill/get a funnel/pipe in there though ?
                        As it happens whilst reading the Haynes manual I read the following chapter and it all came to light, viz-:
1/.   Drain the Overdrive at the same time as the gearbox, they share the same oil.
2/.   The filler plug is also a filler/leveller plug and is located on the LH side of the gearbox, access from underneath the car.

That cheered me up no end as I now had a definite plan to work to and as long as I remembered to replace the drain plugs we're off to a flying start.
That was the easy bit.
Removing the filler plug was easy enough, I had TWO sizes of funnel to re-fill with and a mighty Pneumatic hose length ( 400mm) to do the job.
It was too big in diameter to fit into the drain hole !!
More rooting around in the many plastic boxes and food bags inside the car gave me the ideal pneumatic hose size. This hose came directly off a PBE- P14, 5 Ton hot stamping machine that had been skulking around in my old "work" toolbox ( the hose, not the machine), along with a multitude of pneumatic fittings and metric nuts, bolts and washers. A quick soak of one end in wifeys favourite mug + boiling water saw the end slip over the funnel nicely.
I even had a calibrated measuring jug left over from the brake bleeding session. Or should that be "bleeding brakes" ? Max capacity 2 pints. No worries, 3 jug fulls should be perfect.
                      Well what a performance. It took ages for it to run down the pipe/ funnel and into the gearbox. At least 45 mins per jugfull (2 pints), maybe longer as I kept scroaming under the car to wiggle the pipe, lose some dribbles, mop up,  pull the pipe, shake the car and ponder on the carb linkages I put together wrongly.
After 2 jugs (4pints) I called it a day. After all it was 5 pm on a Saturday and my team had lost at home.
The following day saw me up early and at it like a man possessed.
Between the 5 minute top ups of the small funnel I loosened the RH carb and  turned round the throttle linkage, fitted the springs and throttle cable, oil cooler and pipe ends, fitted the Alternator and coil, and found the radiator, hoses and screws.
                    The alternator was a swine. When first fitted the pulley was not in line with the other two pulleys, at least half a pulley forwards. Loads of head scratching, spannering and jiggling saw me put it back as it was to start with, as brute force and ignorance was needed, not careful logic.
                So the moment of truth will arrive in the next week or two.
What moment of truth I hear you ask !
Well I have my suspicions that the block is cracked.
a/. two core plugs have been tapped firmly home after weeping rusty water
b/. emulsified oil, hence the head gasket change
c/. I left it all winter full of water with no antifreeze in, hence above.

So next up is another purchase of B&Q's 20/50 cheapo oil, Winns engine flush and decent anti corrosion/anti freeze for the start up/

Before that though I have to put a large coach bolt through the driveway gate or I can't open the gate without fear of it falling on beloved MG. Then enlist help pushing car down drive, reversing it out and back down the drive so I can start it nose to nose with family Clio runabout as "jumper". Not that easy with Son No 1 now away at Uni and only 2 girly girls in the house.

Wish me luck.

Bye the bye.........Why no comments ?  Listen guys i need em. Its a lonely life being skint and clueless. Go on help make my week.

Monday, August 27, 2012

A little progress at last

So the enthusiasm has returned, against all the odds at that. Why ? Well work has been tough of late. Lots to learn, lots to remember, lots of things not to do and many many patients.I feel I'm getting to grips with it all now but I'm still regarded as a "newbie" even though I'm one of the oldest there.
I've also been very tired each night and weekends. But, and a very big but wifey booked a holiday in Greece starting early Sept and gifted me £200 from her inheritance ( It also paid for the holiday) so I've had a spring in my step since and money to spend.

I've had the head skimmed ( and pressure tested, it passed) at a local shop and a fine job they did for £75. Got "Payen " gasket/set, cheapo 20/50 oil from B&Q ( Yes, good enough for me as I'll be replacing it soon after a good run and flush).

The head was collected on Sat morn and I devised a cunning device to replace the valves. It was a real struggle to remove them and managed to mangle up most of the trusty workmate lips.

 
I used one of the rubber bumper mounting brackets clamped in said workmate at just the right height ( this took a bit of trial and error) and used a Die wrench levered against underside and over spring cover. It worked a treat and did the job in no time.
I spent ages cleaning engine head and cylinder head before attaching the Payen gasket and making each other meet seamlessly and cleanly. I was going to paint the cylinder head but could not be arsed with all the degreasing, cleaning primering and painting as well as visiting the shops for a suitable engine paint. So on it went. I struggled to remember which studs went where but eventually worked it out and put the new torque wrench to good use by tightening to 30ft/lbs then to 48ft//lbs.
Next on with the exhaust manifold and inlet manifold, followed by the heat shield, new gaskets and very very fiddly carb nuts. The front lower LH nut was a swine and took about 40 mins of hard awkward spannering to complete. I'm sure I used the wrong nut, maybe. But its on and tight.
Still puzzling over the throttle lever mechanism and single spring. WTF does it attach to. Anyways, I left that for now and got on with other things. Fitted Heater valve and new gasket. What a struggle. Again the lower nut was hard to reach and little or no spannering room. In these situations I just sit and have a fag then get back to it, sometimes with a little swearing. Fitted carb/crankcase breather pipes and replaced the long oil cooler pipe ( see earlier post for meeting of alternator & pipe).
I also drained the engine oil into several plastic containers. I say oil, more like yellow/creamy stuff. I should add this was the first job of the latest round of enthusiasm. I managed to spill some under the car when the bottles overflowed. I consoled myself with the fact we'll be having the drive tarmacked anyway. Look !



 
Not included is the gearbox oil which is draining into a 4pt plastic milk bottle as we speak. It looks very old and more importantly BLACK. On day two I puzzled some more regarding the hoses and carb linkage and gave up again. Well, I did solve the pipe problem by viewing some old photos, then connected the servo vacuum pipe. Next up was the front end modification to chrome bumper. I have the bumper, mounting bracket but not the chrome attachment screws. Anyways I'm fitting a MG spoiler rather than the original lower valance which would need more welding and cutting. I had decided earlier on in the head gasket issue that I would remove the front chassis rails whilst the radiator and oil cooler was out. It was easier than I expected. A few slices with the cutting disc in scary grinder and some boring grinding of the chassis base spot welds and job done.
Then I got fed up of the intermittent but light drizzle and called it a day so I could do nothing for the rest of the bank holiday.
 
 
 
Next up is welding plates onto the end of the rails above, fitting of the coil, Alternator, Radiator and oil cooler/pipes. New valve for front tyre, buy some engine flush and coolant/inhibitor + diff oil and top up, fill with cheapo oil and water then ready for start up and test drive up/down cul-de sac ( after testing brakes and engine temp) I think I might temporarily fit the dash for this, dunno yet.
 First up though is a holiday in Greece ( all inclusive = yahhhaaay) with wifey and NO KIDS. 

Monday, July 30, 2012

Update on ponderings

After the mish mash of one afternoons potterings taking off the cylinder head I've left the MG dormant for a while.
No particular reason. The weekends have been good weather but work has taken its toll. I must say being an itinerant industrial printing machinery salesman ( or Student for that matter) did leave me with much more energy for weekend frolics. I've not done such a physical job for over 35 years and when your in your mid fifties a lazy day or several is a must.

The ponderings are this :-
Does the "mayo" come from a cracked Head or Block ?
Is it because I didn't tighten the Head nuts according to the correct torque ?
Has my stupidity of not adding antifreeze during winter had terrible results ( Cracked block ) ?

My answer/s are still unclear.

a/.  Cracked or warped Head ?  Warped should see a £30 ish head skim correct this. Cracked , well time to save for a new unleaded head..........big probs ( No/not enough cash )

b/. Cracked block.....even bigger probs and a big long job. Not something I could do without a garage or have confidence to know what parts need replacing/ regrinding.

c/. Just buy another Head gasket " Payen type" and torque wrench, fit, flush and forget about .

d/. Bob-on with the s**t-load of other bodywork sanding and flatting, fit doors and winders to align doors, wings plus tackle front end chrome bumper mods ( alter indicator holes, grind off front chassis rails, weld captive nuts for bumper irons, modify lower valence for aforementioned.

As a precursor to any of this I've bought a torque wrench.....yahoo. This new toy ( arrives this week) will allow me to go over the front and rear suspension and leave me feeling a little happier knowing its all tickety boo.

I still wonder if I've fitted the correct front springs. I bought them on E-bay from a guy in the same town as me ( actually 1/4 mile away) and he said they were from a chrome bumper car. Trouble is the front end looks very high. Methinks even though they were shorter they may have been from a V8 thus much stiffer resistance for my car.
Just another worry of restoring a classic car on a shoestring and feckless heart.

I'm sure the enthusiasm and energy will come back....hopefully soon. I'm hoping the torque wrench does the trick.

All things considered I've achieved a lot this last few years and accomplished the seemingly impossible with time, patience, Internet trawling ( look up John Twist- University motors, on YouTube & BBS subjects on MG forums) and determination. So' I'm not going to fall at the last and supposedly most pleasurable hurdle of fitting up and interior re-trim ( The most costly though )

Wish me luck, send me money, post encouragement or just stop by to say a few words I need 'em all.

Sunday, July 15, 2012

Dotty, Seals, and emulsion

Where to begin. First of all an apology for not posting sooner. Where does time go ?
My only excuse is that starting the new job has seen me exhausted each night with the mass influx of information, regulations, new faces, protocols and doing the job. It is said by wise old sages that the first six months of a Radiography job is a steep learning curve, well they're wrong. There's no curve at all, its linear and vertical. The good news is that my six month contract has been extended to a further six months, now taking me to mid Feb, prior to anxiety kicking in re permanent employment. I also have an interview later in the week for a permanent job in one of the other hospitals I rotate to every six weeks, so wish me luck.
On to things MG wise.

Last post saw me wrestling with the conundrum of brake and clutch bleeding, after replacing all the seals possible on master and slave cylinders.
The Clutch master is a swine to remove. Its lower bolt is located under the main body, and only accessible via the dash end ( fortunately removed in my case) and some expert bodging of tools I'd acquired. I bought a 250cm ( 10") extension and ground a 1/2" square on the end and connected it to my (wifeys) knuckle extension. Even allowing for only one flats turn at a time and ages to get the socket onto the nut each time it was a real pain. A pain mostly because the seal kit was crap. On and off the master came at least for times, between each set me pleading for someone to help press the pedal whilst I was underneath opening and closing the bleed screw. Each time the clutch pedal was either too soft or said master piston stayed "in" after depression.
Depression is an emotive word, its how I felt after the umpteenth time of M/C removal and dis-assembly. Its a good job I bought 5 litres of DOT 4 Fluid. I've used half of it already, mostly dappled on the driveway floor....................Hence " DOTTY" 
Depression crept in thinking I'd need a new Clutch M/C.......to expensive for me to justify to Wifey after the £ 200 of suspension and brake parts I was dying to road test. Hence my frustration at cheap but crap seal parts thwarting me. The brake M/C problem was similar, only there was no pressure emitting from the rear 3 way union at all. In the end I purchased a new brake warning switch and seals ( 2 types). But, and a big but, business end of the small cylinder to operate the switch would not budge from its long thin hole. The fantastic Mr Twist says just give it a firm tap " in gloved hand" on something solid. No chance. After several weekends of penetrating fluid soaking and poking it would not budge. Eventually I resolved it by using a punch to drive the rod in 2/3mm, then using a small electrical screwdriver to prise forward the rod. It mangled the rod somewhat but heyho. The brake warning switch the rod acts on was pants( £16.00). It disintegrated the first time I screwed it in. I spent ages trying to repair it but gave up. I ordered ( for £ 4.85) a 5/16" UNF bolt to blank off the port and left the useless rod/spring/tiny "o" ring out of the equation. Quess what ? It worked !. A fit of benevolence from wifey saw her sat in car ( reading Sunday supplement) whilst I bled all for corners. Its not perfect, with some sponginess but............F*** it, after so long another job done.

What had preyed on my mind though was the emulsion in the rocker cover and thermostat housing.
I took the bull by the horns today and fetteled it. LOOK !




Top shows the cylinder head removed opposite no 4 cylinder. Bottom the oil filter when removed.
Since I'd removed the jubilee clips to the top rad hose ( to fasten round oil filter to remove it) some weeks earlier I decided to remove the rad, flush it out both ways and then some more. It was easy, which made a nice change from the last several weeks.
Some struggles with the twin carbs and manifold nuts but done rapidly if not a little fiddly then on to the head nuts. Surprisingly they came out easily after a few grunts. Could this be the problem ? did I torque them down sufficiently when I replaced the gasket the first time? I didn't have a torque wrench ( still don't- despite asking for one the last three Christmases) Did I use too much gasket sealant ? Should I have used sealant at all ? Was the gasket another cheap aftermarket crappy thing ?

Who knows. Here's after cleaning up half of the block top.

There was loads of rust at the water holes which makes me suspect I should have added antifreeze before now. A decision I regret. Good ole Lostsock. Never the wise when it comes to a peaceful life. It may also explain why 2 core plugs sort of tried to escape.

As it stands, its payday on Friday so I'll treat myself to a new original spec "Coopers Payen" head gasket, engine flush stuff ( which one though?) and coolant antifreeze/rad flush.
Next up will be the engine start and engine temperature monitoring, more bodywork (sanding, sanding and RH wing attachment).
P.S by way of a slight understatement we've had quite a bit of rain this summer and not just weekends.


  

Monday, May 07, 2012

from bad to worse

So, the impetus of having cash to spend on parts to fit has been and gone with a whimper.
Last post saw me frustrated at my lack of ability ( and assistance) regarding bleeding the brakes and clutch. I grabbed the bull by the horns and read up thoroughly on the task at hand ( well, surfed more like) and I happened upon a real nugget of vital information on the Chicago clubland forum. "You have to loosen the brake sensor ( located under the master cylinder)  three and a half turns, or bleeding is impossible". Why did I have to seek so hard to find this out ?
Mr Porter, Mr Evans and even the noble Mr Twist say nothing of this fact.

Anyways it was a real eureka moment and spurred me on after another night shift at the very large Hospital (27 miles of corridors, yes 27, and I think I walked most of them that shift looking for the equipment and ward)
So undo the plastic sensor after first removing the two wires easy peasy. Too easy. The f***ing thing had seized solid in the threaded portion leaving the body to spin and spin. Acces is very poor as its on the underside, so there was no other thing to do other than remove the master cylinder.
My thinking was since I am removing it why not do a complete refurb of the seals then. A nice YouTube from Mr Twist even showed me how.
Wrong, Wrong very wrong.


Easy enough to remove from the car, 2 x 1/2" nut/bolts. Even managed to remove circlip from inside ( After "modifying" my { wife's actually but she don't know this yet} longnose pliers).
Innards came out easily, 2 x springs, 2 x shuttles + 4 x seals. I had to drive a screwdriver into the hole left by the broken body of the sensor and manfully undo it outwards. This done then on to the other end of the cylinder to remove the small shuttle and spring. The lovely and wise old sage Mr Twist says " wear a glove and tap it firmly on its end- It'll just slide out".
Well I'm sorry Mr Twist. I always believe everything you say, you wise old sage. But on this you're wrong, very wrong. I had it soaking for 3 days in Penetrating fluid, Duck oil and white spirit. And for three days ( Nay, now.... still) it will not budge. I came close to smashing a very substantial stone wall through my vigour's but it will not budge. I even bent one of the old brake spring ends and tried pulling it out by hooking under the end washer, but no way Jose.

I did then what I normally do when encountered with something unfathomable, Ignore it.
I moved on to removing the reservoir. Should be easy, 2 x quite rusty phillips headed screws. One undid easy, the other was a real swine. I had to drill it out. Four cheap drills of varying sizes later ( one drill [ 1.5mm]broken inside screw !!) left me cursing and very frustrated.
However I managed it,.... eventually. I'd well and truly had enough of the bloody brakes so I moved on.



 Moved on to someting not brake related. Namely the weeping core plugs at the RH front of the engine. The one to the left is also weeping but only slightly. Removed the alternator (easy) one plug lead (!) and the oil filter. It was a real swine. I had to utilise two Jubilee clips from the front hose and some precision whacks with the lump hammer.

Horror of Horrors....................................more later !

The core plug came out easily with a poke of a small screwdriver. Cleaned up nicely, smeared with gasket sealant and popped in firmly with a large sockett and and trusty lump hammer. The one on the left would not come out so easily. It was leaking because it wasn't in squarely. Another precision tap with sockett and hammer and in it went, true and square.
At least thats one of the many problems resolved.

Now on to the Horror of horrors I'd been ignoring for ages.




On removing the oil filter the remains saw masses of "emulsified" engine oil. I'd noticed some months and months  earlier after a brief run of the engine, but this looks fairly serious. A massive failure of the head gasket methinks, mehopes.

A years or two ago I'd removed the head, cleaned it up nicely, polished the valves and guides and gave it a good clean. A new gasket set from Mechspec and it was back on and has run afterwards. So where is the water coming from ? I hope it is the head gasket. I now regret using the red gasket sealant when re-fitting. This time I'm going to use an original copper gasket.
What a balls ache though having to remove the head. Anyone who's ever done one will know.
Remove all hoses, cables and wires. Undo carbs ( very fiddly) and exhaust manifold + inlet manifold. Remove tappet cover and rocker assy. Undo all head bolts and lift off. Easier said than done with all that gasket sealant I lalloped about last time.

I must admit I'm at an all time low with the car. I seem to be spending all my time on small, fiddly and as then presumed "servicable" parts. Spent a fortune on the suspension, brake discs, pads and piping only to be thwarted by my own stupidity and impatience.

So, all I now require is a brake sensor, reservior screw, Master cylinder seal kit, new fulcrum rods/clevis pins for clutch and brake slave cylinder, head gasket, 20/50 oil and I'm all sorted. When though?

Thursday, April 05, 2012

When cash is not enough

So, how to explain the title then ?
Last post saw me list a long long list of stuff I needed to buy to make some progress. Well now I've been paid (twice) I did spend some hard earned cash on the following :-
... New Rear Brake pads, pins, clips etc
... One ( Yes, one) brake caliper cylinder. More of this later.
... Brake fluid ( 5 ltrs) a little overkill on volume, but again more on that later.
... Rear brake piston seal kit/s, springs and pins.
... Rear 1-5/16" sockett (for rear centre nut)
... Pair of rear hub to axle seals.

That little lot came to over £95. I felt guilty over the amount, however it was needed and I'd earned the right spend some cash after a good few frugal winter months.

Initially all went well. The rear oil seal hub to axle was easier than expected courtesy of a lump hammer and flat softwood timber.
The first problem was the slight "clunk" from the axle when turning the wheel in either direction. I know all MG's have this but how much is acceptable ? At the worse its the drive shaft splines f***ed. At best the diff pinions oil seats have disintegrated. I'm still annoyed I did not discover/address this issue last summer when all the rear axle was removed and re-painted together with the suspension renewal/lowering.
Ho hum. I decided its best to worry about this issue when the car is up and running, after all I'd got parts to fit.

Some good news was that in the box of parts that arrived was a complete rear brake cylinder. I didn't order it but was charged for it so I decided to leave it for now and get on with both cylinder refurbs. The a real conundrum started. Once I'd removed the RH cylinder from the back plate how the hell do I get the main plunger out. Moreover, it was rusted solid in there and was immovable. I decided to fit the new one, hoping the other side was not as bad. Fortunately it wasn't, so a good soaking in penetrating fluid and a few taps with trusty lump hammer and wood saw the job done, refitted to back plate, springs and old shoes (old but with lots of facing material on them) fitted and ready for action. The handbrake cable was a challenge to re-fit at the final side, which required some clever leverage with a set of water pump pliers and five pairs of hands,  but on other job done. Even managed to set the shoes to grip with the handbrake after slight adjustment.

I'm writing this on Thursday teatime ( Prior to Good Friday) and just popped out for a smoke to ponder on the Issues I'm about to write of, when looking down at the floor near the MG I see a small washer. On inspection it turns out to be a shim washer........and I know where from !!!! Please bear with me and as I'm getting a little ahead with this welcome discovery and diversion. But it could be IMPORTANT to my woes !

Have to go now as a bottle of whisky is calling after the end of a good few days on my first night shift rota. TBC.

So to continue.
I was feeling rather smug with myself after fitting most of the brake parts and having a copious supply of brake fluid. So all that remained was to fit the front calliper seals and pistons, fit whole lot to car, fill up with said fluids, bleed and another milestone reached.
Second problem.
I'd bought only one new front brake piston as it had rusted solid in situ and took some ingenuity to removed (see earlier post). The other three pistons were deemed o.k to re-use in the name of economy and originality. But where were they ?  I hunted high and low, in and out, shed and desk drawer but nowhere could they be located. After a lot of thinking and more hunting I decided I must have thrown them away. I don't remember the decision but in hindsight I must have done, as it could be deemed foolhardy not to replace a complete set. So another job has to be shelved and 3 more pistons ordered.

What next then ?  I'll do the clutch. Should be easy peasy. fill up, bleed and hey Ho, a working clutch. Wrong, very wrong.
The pedal travel was very easy and soft even with the bleed nipple open fully. I decided to remove the slave cylinder to inspect it. What a sad sight. Its piston ( without protective rubber boot, I presume long since disintegrated) was also rusted solid and was never going anywhere, in or out. It looked impossible to pull out,being half in, half out of the bore with nowhere to grip onto to pull. After a lot of failed attempts at grippy things, small screwdrivers and penetrating fluid I had to resort to some bodging. That's after I'd already looked on line at the cost of a new unit ( how much !).
I drilled a M7 hole in the end of the piston and tapped it M8. Using a long-ish M8 bolt, large washer and the next door neighbours G clamp and a large adjustable spanner it was screwed out ala piston removal for front cylinder. Why a G clamp you might ask ?
Third problem
Well the trusty workmates sad and knackered makeshift jaws had truly given up the ghost, hence begging a G clamp to grip it whilst screwing out. Anyways it did it after a lot of swearing. Trouble was the cylinder piston now had a M8 shaped tapped hole through its centre. Next came a spot of Lostsock ingenuity again. I inserted M8 screw the other way covered in epoxy glue, just enough to allow the clutch lever rod to seat in the bottom. Waited till the epoxy had set and sliced off the back ( The inside part of the piston) with the trust scary grinder with thin cutting disc. It worked a treat and was very neat. I'm a poet but don't know it.
The innards of the slave cylinder were very black and cruddy but the seals were good after a thorough clean and flush out. Unfortunately an new rubber boot is not available for the clutch end so I fitted it anyway and got ready to bleed.
Fourth problem
Bleedings not easy. Especially when you have no willing assistant. Yes, the entire Lostsock came to help, but got fed up and abandoned me after 5 minuted each. The piston in the slave cylinder did not appear to move much, and only a dribble of fluid came out of the bleed hole, plus the pedal was very very soft. I decided to investigate the clutch master cylinder. Top bolt easy to undo, bottom bolt IMPOSSIBLE !. there is not enough room to swing a spanner or get access to the bolt head. Again BBS forum came to the rescue. A universal joint is required, extension and attack it from the inside dash compartment. For me easy as the dash is out . Bought and 250mm extension, ground a 3/8" square on the end of my 250mm universal joint and bingo. God it was difficult though. Only half, nay 1/4 of a flat turn possible. But after about an hour out it came. Disassembled easy enough and ordered a new seal kit ( along with the 3 pistons for front callipers).

Its at this point things are a little hazy. The seal kit was fitted. Its not easy and I had an extra seal ?
Two tapered seals were obvious enough although a little difficult to fit but where did the third small "cap like" seal fit ? Over the end of the spring ?. I fitted it there and tried again. See Lostsock struggle to fit the bolt. An hour later it was back in place. An hour later saw the clutch pedal stay down when depressed. That's just how I felt, depressed. I removed the master cylinder again, disassembled and removed the "cap" seal. Refitted ( another 45 mins this time) and cajoled son No 1 to help with the bleeding. progress at last, a flow was happening at the bleed nipple.
Fifth Problem
The pedal (and master cylinder piston)  kept sticking. My only option was to remove the nut and union at the back of the assembly and use a long thin Allen key to push the piston back. However after two days of constant backache, frustration and bewilderment I gave up. Where, if at all should the "cap" seal go ?

Sixth problem
I'll bleed the brakes then. It cant be that difficult. I started on the Rear LH bleed nipple. This time with some co-operation from Son No 1. Nothing !! Not even a dribble. Only  bubbling from within the brake reservoir on pedal upstroke. Tried other three nipples, same thing. Gave up to ponder my fate and hope new master cylinders are not required.

Seventh problem
On poking around the engine bay I noticed that 2 core plugs are leaking. Damn. Fortunately they are easily accessible near the oil filter and alternator. Its just another woe to add to a frustrating restoration and when I thought money was the answer to progress.

So, halfway through writing this I found the shim washer outside. Trouble is I can't remember where its from, Clutch slave or master cylinder. I do think it will solve a problem, which problem though. Should I move on to the bodywork for a while ?

Workwise, I've finished my 6 week induction period and am on the rota proper. This has already seen me do a 2 day night shift stint and a Saturday (Very hard work, remind me not to work this day in future) But it does mean I will get occasional daylight hours at home and if I have the motivation sort out the damn car. Lets have some encouragement from yer then...........please ! 


Sunday, January 22, 2012

At the ready

Sorry for not posting sooner. Its the longest I've gone without an update or progress report. An educated meander at previous years post's sees the same thing. Its the weather y'know.
I think I've changed my wish list from

# 1      Garage

to

#1     Heated Garage

Fortunately this year so far has not seen any snow, however there has been Wind, lots of it. I must have been to re-arrange the mishmash of poly covers on the car several times a day but now I've given up. Its waterproof ( I think) and enjoys flapping aimlessly and making an annoying flappy noise with each gust.

So what are the plans for the MG then ?
Since I now have a job, but haven't started yet, real progress is at least 3 months away when paid, debts and x-mas paid off and finances back on track.
I did purchase a pair of rear axle/hub oil seals early Dec which were going cheap on e-bay but not fitted them yet. The main reason being my lack of 1"5/16 socket for the rear wheel nut. Why did BL make the front and rear different sizes ?. Several trawls round my local Thursday flea market ( always good for second hand tools and old engineering stuff) has proved fruitless.So no progress on the seal replacement. Apart from which as I said earlier, the weathers been crap. I also have ( by way of x-mas prezzie from wifey) a pair of front bumper Irons ( yes...e-bay again, bargain at £5) to fit.

Enough chitter chatter, here's a list of the jobs to do, not necessarily in this order.

1/.   Re-fit oil cooler hose and route/ fix permanently (or as permanent enough to stop another disaster)

2/.   Flush Radiator and heater to cure running hot issue

3/.   Top up with oil and water

4/.   Fill clutch reservoir and bleed

5/.   Replace front brake cylinders and seals, buy pads/pins/ fluid, fit  and test.

6/.   Get to bottom of why filling stations air lines valve connector won't fill my tyres/valve.

7/.   Buy 1"5/16 socket...........Maybe. Then replace rear oil seals

8/.  Remove rear back plate and refurbish brake cylinder with new seal kit/s

9/.   Run engine and check engine hot running/water oil mixing in rocker box.

10/.   Fill brake system, bleed and test ..see 6/. ( methinks scary grinder had "dabbed" valve !!)

11/.   Finish bodywork and fit interior

12/.   Re-spray, MOT, Insure and off I go    


O.K maybe 11/. and 12/. may have been simplified somewhat (yes... a lot) but 1/. to 10/. is enough to see me through till early summer, if the weather is dry and wind free. A very big if for UK residents.
If things go well work wise and I can get a grip with the bodywork fiddly bits then maybe just maybe this year will see the car on the road and finished ( Is it ever "finished" ?)

Oh and just as a passing  note, totally unrelated, here's me graduating last week. Just to prove I do finish some things.